The journal

Tips, stories and guides from our team on the ground

12 Jul 2026 · 6 min read

Stargazing in the Gobi: the darkest skies on Earth

Why astronomers rank the southern Gobi among the world's best places to see the Milky Way — and how to photograph it with just a phone.

2 Jul 2026 · 6 min read

Wrestling, archery and a horse race run by children — plus where to stand, what it costs, and why the countryside version may be the better day out.

28 Jun 2026 · 8 min read

From khorkhog stone-cooked lamb to airag fermented mare's milk — what to expect (and love) at a herder family's table.

10 Jun 2026 · 5 min read

Layers, sun cream and a headlamp — the complete checklist our guides give every traveller before a steppe expedition.

22 May 2026 · 7 min read

How a Kazakh berkutchi takes an eaglet from the cliffs, trains her for seven winters, and then sets her free again.

8 May 2026 · 7 min read

June green, July festivals, September gold, February ice — what each month actually offers, and the two months we quietly steer people away from.

19 Apr 2026 · 5 min read

Which way to walk around the stove, why you never step on the threshold, and what to do when the bowl comes to you.

2 Apr 2026 · 6 min read

Half the country lives in one city, and most travellers pass through it in a taxi. Here is what to do with the two days at either end of a trip.